1. Move air naturally: If humidity isn’t too high, open windows and doors to start air circulating. Open closet and cabinet doors, and remove drawers.
2. Move air mechanically: Rent or buy high-powered fans to rev up air circulation. Depending on size and power, fans cost between $50 and $500 to buy; $20 a day to rent. (Do not use your central air conditioner or furnace blower if HVAC ducts were under water.)
3. Dehumidify: A portable dehumidifier can remove water vapor from the air in a contained area, like a bedroom or downstairs rec room. Shut the room’s windows and doors to prevent more humidity from seeping in. Buy a big dehumidifier ($270) so you don’t have to empty its water drawer frequently.
4. Pump water: A sump pump is a submersible pump that continuously moves water out of the house through a hose or pipe. If you have standing water that is several inches deep, a sump pump can help. Rent a sump pump for about $44 a day, or purchase one for $100 and up.
5. Wet/dry shop vac: Some shop vacs are rated for use in wet conditions. These vacs suck water from carpets and give you a fighting chance to save rugs and wall-to-walls. Don’t use an ordinary household vacuum whose innards are not protected from water. A 6-gallon wet/dry vac costs $50; a 16-gallon goes for about $170.
6. Remove sodden objects: Haul wet rugs and furniture into the sun to reduce inside moisture level. Remove sheet vinyl or linoleum flooring to promote maximum evaporation. Throw out wet insulation under floors.
7. Freeze papers: To buy time, place wet books and photos into plastic bags and place in a frost-free freezer. This will stop additional deterioration, and prevent mold and mildew. When you have time, retrieve books from the freezer and air- or fan-dry the pages.
8. Absorb moisture: Desiccants (silica gel, clay, calcium oxide) absorb moisture like a sponge. Place water-permeable packages of desiccants and wet items in airtight containers or in sealed areas, like closets. Some desiccants change color to indicate they are saturated, which can take days or weeks, depending on how much moisture items contain.
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Water Damage Home Repair | Water Damage Cleanup | HouseLogic
Saturday, October 27, 2012
Halloween Crafts & Homemade Decoration Ideas | Pumpkin Carving Ideas
Halloween
Find Halloween craft and decorating ideas, including pumpkin carving templates from HGTV.com.
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Host a spooky yet elegant Halloween party with bold table settings and decorations.
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Saturday, October 20, 2012
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
12 steps to winterize your home | Inman News
http://www.shutterstock.com/pic.mhtml?id=86326951" target="_blank">Autumn</a> image via Shutterstock." width="225" />Autumn image via Shutterstock.
The leaves are turning, the mornings are getting chilly, and winter isn't too far away. It's time once again for my annual checklist of important things that I recommend you do to get your home ready for the coming change of seasons.
On the inside
__ Check smoke detectors: Change your smoke detector batteries, and check for proper operation. Also, check the date on the bottom of the smoke detector. Smoke detectors have a life span, and if yours is more than 10 years old, it may not work properly in a fire, so replace it with a new one. Also, make sure you have a smoke detector at each sleeping room, and one centrally located on each level of the home.
__ Install a carbon monoxide detector: If you have a furnace, fireplace, water heater, or other appliance that's fueled by propane or natural gas, or if you have an attached garage, install a carbon monoxide detector. They just plug in, and you can get them inexpensively from most home centers and other retailers. If your existing carbon monoxide detector is more than 5 years old, replace it with a new one.
___ Check gas appliances: Speaking of gas appliances, consider having your utility company or heating contractor inspect flues, fittings, and other components of your natural gas or propane appliance and heating systems for potential problems.
___ Change furnace filters: Always put in new furnace filters in the fall. It's a simple and inexpensive way to add to your home's efficiency and your family's comfort.
___ Check and seal heating ducts: Crawl a little, save a lot. Check the ducts in your attic, basement, and crawl space for gaps between ducts and fittings, and seal them with a quality metallic tape, not regular duct tape, which doesn't last. Also, check to be sure that all of the ducts are off the ground and adequately supported.
___ Check insulation levels: Increased insulation can make a huge difference in both your comfort and your heating bills, so don't put off having your insulation levels inspected. Call your local utility company or building department to learn what levels are optimum for your area. Check the attic, underfloor, kneewalls, skylight shafts and ductwork. Upgrade underinsulated areas as needed, either as a do-it-yourself project (home centers and hardware stores have all the supplies you need) or with the help of a licensed insulation contractor.
On the outside
___ Check the roof: A roof that leaks not only has the potential to cause significant structural damage, it also wets insulation, which causes a drop in the insulation's ability to resist heat loss. Examine roofing shingles and flashings, and repair or replace them as needed. It's much easier and safer to take care of these problems now than during winter's ice and rain.
___ Seal masonry surfaces: Apply a sealer to concrete driveways and walkways, brick patios and other exterior masonry. Masonry sealers prevent water from penetrating into cracks and crevices where it can freeze and cause serious damage. You can find sealers at home centers, paint stores and masonry supply retailers. Apply with a brush, roller or sprayer.
___ Check weatherstripping: Gaps around doors and windows waste expensive heated air and create chilling interior drafts. Check and replace or adjust weatherstripping and door sills to create an airtight seal. Everything you need can be found at home centers, hardware stores and many other retailers.
___ Handle yard chores: Many plants require pruning this time of year, and lawns should be fertilized with a fall/winter fertilizer to feed them through the winter and get them ready for a fast green-up when spring returns. Clean up all your yard tools and put them away for the season.
___ Close foundation vents: You should have opened your foundation vents for the summer to allow any accumulated crawl space moisture to escape, so now's the time to close them up again for winter freeze protection. Also, install exterior faucet covers.
___ Trim trees: Overhanging trees deposit debris on your roof, scrape and damage shingles, promote the growth of mildew, and, worst of all, have the potential for devastating damage if they snap during a wind storm. Consider having a professional tree service inspect overhanging trees, and safely cut them back as needed.
Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.
Contact Paul Bianchina: All rights reserved. This article may not be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever, in part or in whole, without written permission of Inman News. Use of this article without permission is a violation of federal copyright law.
Saturday, October 13, 2012
7 Questions You Must Ask Your Real Estate Agent|buyers,sellers,agents
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Whether you are selling your house or buying a new one, you are probably working with a real estate agent. If you did not know your agent before starting this process you might be wondering how you can be sure that the agent will do a good job for you.
You may try researching the agent or the agency he/she comes from, looking for references, and scanning the local news but how can you ever really be sure you are getting the best home at the best price? You have to be an informed buyer yourself. Here are seven questions you should ask your real estate agent before making any financial commitments.
1. “What are the current owners’ biggest complaints?” Your agent will probably try to talk his way out of this question, but you should be persistent. If you are moving into a building with a board that has meetings, find the minutes. Are there problems you should know about and how were those problems solved? How complaints were handled is just as important as the complaints themselves.
2.”How long did it take you to get here?” The closer your agent lives to the house you are trying to either buy or sell the better. The more local the agent, the more he knows about the local market. If the agent has not sold anything nearby in the recent past, consider finding a new one. Past performance doesn’t guarantee future success, but it can be a very informative indicator.
3.”What is your website?” If your agent does not have his own website he is most likely an amateur and it is bad for business, which is bad for you. Almost all buyers look online for homes, so your agent should be Internet savvy. Check out the site and see what is on it. How is the photo quality? How much did the last home get sold for? There should be a lot of information available on a real estate agent’s website, so dig through it.
4. “Am I asking for too much money?” Or “Am I planning on spending too much or too little money?” The sad truth is that you may not like what you hear but this is also a test of your agent’s honesty. These are important questions and you deserve the honest answers.
5. “Do you have anything unlisted?” A lot of agents have secret treasures that they only show to the people who know to ask for them. Many of these homes aren’t even officially on the market yet but well-connected agents can sell these homes without that ever needing to happen. This question can be your ticket into some of the best properties in the neighborhood of your dreams.
6.”Can I see your references?” A real estate agent should have references that she is willing to pass along. Anyone who can’t provide these sends up an automatic red flag. Once you have the references, use them and find out how the last clients feel about her. Were they happy with results? Do they wish they had used a different agent?
7.”Is this area improving or declining?” Your real estate agent should be able to recognize growth trends and other market changes. So, he should also be able to respond to this kind of question quickly and accurately. Of course you want an area that is improving and not declining, but this might not be obvious to you on first glance. Your real estate agent, on the other hand, should know this off the top of his head.
About the Author: Jennifer D’Angelo has been writing about the real estate industry for companies like Right Residential for nearly 10 years. When she’s not writing, you can find Jenn volunteering for her local ASPCA.
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Evaluate Your House for Basement Finishing
Some unfinished basements are better basement finishing candidates than others. Here’s how to evaluate your space for a basement finishing.
Basement remodel cost
When it comes to basement finishing, not all unfinished space is created equal. Consequently, the per-square-foot price of basement finishing starts at $100/sq. ft. and can climb higher depending on how much or how little remodeling you must do.
Granted, you won’t have to dig and lay a foundation or frame and insulate exterior walls--that’s already done.
Depending on your circumstances, here’s what you’ll need to know:
Building to code
The International Residential Code (IRC) says a basement living space must have a clear, floor-to-ceiling height of at least 7 feet (6 feet for bathrooms). Local codes for basement finishing may vary, and exceptions are made for the presence of exposed structural beams, girders, or mechanical system components along the ceiling, but only if they’re spaced at least 4 feet apart and extend no more than 6 inches from the ceiling.
If your existing basement ceiling height doesn’t meet those specifications, you have two options, and neither is cheap:
- Raise your house and build up the foundation around it to gain the ceiling height you need.
- Lower the floor, which entails removing the existing concrete slab floor, excavating to the desired level, and pouring new concrete footings and a floor slab.
Both options during basement finishing require professional and precise engineering, excavation, and structural work that will cost at least $20,000.
Add a staircase
The IRC also governs the staircase that leads from your home’s main level to the basement remodel. Requirements include a handrail and stairs with proper width, tread, and riser dimensions. There must be at least 6 ft. 8 inches of headroom at every point along the staircase.
If the stairway isn’t wide enough (at least 36 inches) or the steps aren’t to code, you may have to rebuild them during basement finishing, an extra cost of about $2,000.
Condition the space
Heating and cooling your basement finishing can be as simple as tapping into existing HVAC main trunks and adding a couple of vents ($1,000) or as complicated as upgrading your entire heating and cooling systems ($7,000 to $15,000).
Your contractor will have to “size” your existing system to make sure it can handle the additional load and will comply with building codes that consider health and safety, such as adequate venting of furnace combustion gasses.
Cure moisture problems
You’ll have to fix moisture problems before basement finishing begins. You may have to waterproof walls and floors, grade the yard so water falls away from the foundation, install a sump pump, or install drains around the foundation, all or any of which can add thousands in costs.
Add emergency egress
Code dictates that basement finishing have at least one door or window big enough for people to get out and for help to get in during an emergency: If you’re including a bedroom, it must have its own point of egress. Each egress opening must be at least 5.7 sq. ft. with the windowsill no more than 44 inches above the floor.
Most basement walls are built using poured concrete or masonry blocks, which can be cut (although not as easily as wood-framed walls) to create openings for egress windows or doors.
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Evaluate Your House for a Family Room Addition
A family room is one of the most straightforward additions you can build with a relatively large payback—and it’ll completely transform your home.
But also, a family room can be much more than just an addition: By building it next to the kitchen, with an open floor plan, you can create a single, multipurpose gathering space that’s well suited to life in the 21st century.
What’s involved
A 16-by-25 foot family room addition constructed over a crawlspace foundation, with vinyl siding, hardwood floors, recessed ceiling lights, and 180 square feet of glass, including windows and atrium-style doors (double French doors with fixed door-sized panels on each side), has a median cost of $83,118, according to Remodeling Magazine’s latest Cost vs. Value Report. You can expect to recoup about $50,000 — 60% of your investment — when you sell the house.
Make no mistake, this is a big project that will require a building permit, take a big chunk out of your yard, and require a host of different tradesmen—to pour a foundation, install a roof, and do everything in between.
You’ll have to expand your heating and cooling systems to accommodate the new space, which will likely mean upgrading to larger furnace, central air conditioner and electrical panel, says Phil Kolby, a contractor in Charlotte, N.C. And you’ll see higher energy and property tax bills as a result of the project.
Is it right for your house?
The classic scenario that calls for a family room addition is a house with a small- or medium-sized kitchen that’s segregated from formal living and dining rooms by interior walls. But there are often lower-cost alternatives: You may be able to avoid a full addition project by simply knocking down some interior walls ($2,000 to $8,000 per wall, depending on whether it’s bearing or contains plumbing and electrical supply lines)—as long as you’re willing to turn those formal spaces into everyday rooms.
Or, if that’s not feasible, because of stairways or other complications, the family room doesn’t have to be adjacent to the kitchen. You may be able to create the space by finishing the basement or using a spare bedroom or a bonus room over the garage. “Those are far more cost-effective ways to get your family room,” says Missoula, Mont., appraiser Bryan Flaherty.
Still, even in this market, Flaherty says an addition may be worth the investment. If family rooms are common among similar houses in your neighborhood, the house doesn’t have other major salability drawbacks, and you’re not selling for three to five years, it’s a fairly safe investment. “After all, even if you only get half the cost back when you sell, that means you're getting all those years to enjoy the room for 50 cents on the dollar,” Flaherty says.
Design decisions
Since the goal of a family room is to provide an open, useful gathering space, this is not a project that calls for too many bells and whistles. Still, there are a few design strategies to keep in mind, says Matt Davitt, a design/build contractor in West Kingston, R.I.
“We like to put in a lot of glass,” he says, “with numerous windows, French doors, and a patio space right outside for indoor-outdoor entertaining.” Cathedral ceilings are also popular because they provide a feeling of spaciousness. Other top features include gas-burning fireplaces and flat screen televisions with ceiling-mounted speakers.
A few tips
As you’re planning your family room addition, keep these suggestions in mind:
- Let your house dictate the style choices you make in the family room. For example, if you have oak floors throughout your house, put them in the family room, too. Match the exterior siding, interior trim, and window designs as well.
- Decide where your flat-screen television will hang early on in the process so your electrician—or an audio design expert, if you prefer—can install the power supply and high-definition wiring while the walls are open. You can also install wiring for ceiling speakers and for the cable box, DVD player and other equipment.
- Insulate not only the exterior walls of your family room, but the interior walls, too. That will help reduce the noise that reaches the kids’ bedrooms from action movies and late-night dinner parties. As long as you’re buying windows, it may be worthwhile to upgrade to highly energy-efficient ones, says Kolby. The extra cost isn’t that much and there are tax credits of up to $200 for high-efficiency ones installed in 2011.
- Even if you can’t afford a new patio or deck as part of the project, come up with a basic plan for where it will be so that your family room is designed around it.
- Consult an architect or designer to help design the project—especially the way the roofline and interior space meld with the existing home. After all, this is a major project that will permanently affect the value and salability of your home.
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Monday, October 1, 2012
Evaluate Your House for a Home Office
When planning a home office remodel, consider the specific needs of your profession for space, light, storage, technology, and security.
That said, while an office may make your home more attractive to potential buyers, it won't add significantly to value. According to Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value Report, converting a 12-by-12-foot bedroom into an office costs a national average of around $28,000 and recoups less than half the investment. But if you're among the more than 20% of Americans who do some or all of their job at home, a comfortable, functional work space is a must-have.
Where to put a home office
A spare bedroom is the most common place for an office, but it's not the only adaptable space in the house. The formal living rooms and dining rooms in many older homes often don't get a lot of use and make great offices, says Lisa Kanarek, founder of WorkingNaked.net, a service for people "stripped of the support" of the corporate office. "They're spacious, have good light, and are easy to close off," Kanarek says.
Architect Sarah Susanka, author of "Not So Big Remodeling," converted her formal living room into an office for her therapist husband. It's close to the front door and has easy access to the powder room, both important considerations if your business brings visitors into the home. Attics, basements, dens, sunrooms, garages, even laundry rooms are similarly convertible.
One important question is whether you'll be taking the home office deduction on your taxes. If so, your work area can't be used for any other purpose; the IRS bases the deduction on square footage used "exclusively and regularly" for business activities. Consult your accountant about whether the deduction makes sense for you.
What to spend on a home office
The home office conversion described in the Cost vs. Value Report costs about $28,900, a figure that includes custom cabinetry, 20 linear feet of laminate desktop, wall-mounted storage, upgraded electrical and data wiring, and new woodwork, paint, and flooring.
Of course, you don't have to spend that much. By using off-the-shelf products and materials and doing some of the work, such as painting, yourself, you can transform an existing room into a home office for a lot less money. At minimum, though, budget $3,000 to $5,000 for paint, flooring, lighting, office furniture, and equipment.
Consider the needs of your profession
When evaluating space, start by making a list of the needs of your profession. An architect, for example, might want natural light and ample counter space for rolling out blueprints, while a vendor needs easily accessed storage for shipping supplies. In general, every office requires a work surface, storage, place for a computer and other electronics, and adequate lighting. Consider also your needs for the following:
Power, phone, and data wiring. A bedroom may already have enough outlets and at least one phone or cable jack, but if you're taking over a formal dining room, you'll likely need new wiring. It's a relatively easy job for an electrician to add outlets (typically $100 to $250 per receptacle, depending on whether you also need to run new circuits). Internet connections can often be handled wirelessly, but for maximum reliability and security, ask your phone or cable company about installing additional lines.
Privacy. Susanka says the biggest mistake her clients make is putting their office in the middle of their home's hustle and bustle. "The environment for work needs to be off the main living area," she says. That doesn't mean you need to hide out in the basement, but you're better off out of the major traffic zones, especially with children at home.
Security. If your work involves financial or other confidential records, think about how you'll keep them secure. "I have client credit card numbers in my office," says Paige Rien, designer for the HGTV show "Hidden Potential." "I close the door and lock it." (For more on keeping important documents safe, take our home office security checkup.)
When dedicated space isn't an option
Not everyone has a spare room to devote to an office. In that case, you need to find creative ways to carve out space. Offices can often be tucked into little-used locations, such as under stairs, in dormers, and on second-floor landings. One of Kanarek's clients set up in a walk-in closet. "She lined the walls with counters and put in mirrors to make the space feel bigger," Kanarek says.
Closets offer a good compromise because you can close the doors on your job at the end of the day. Another option is a computer armoire; starting at around $500, you can get one with shelves for a computer and peripherals, a slide-out keyboard tray, organizers for files, even built-in cork boards. If that's out of your budget, set off a corner of the living room or family room with a room divider, bookcases, or a folding screen.
Whatever you do, Kanarek advises, try working in the space for a few weeks before investing any money in remodeling. "I have clients who spend thousands of dollars on built-ins," she says, "and then sit on their bed or at the kitchen table to work because they like the light there better."
Pat Curry is a contributing editor to HousingZone.com, a former senior editor at BUILDER, the official magazine of the National Association of Home Builders, and a frequent contributor to real estate and home-building publications.